PhillySpeak.com

N’awlins. Not my home town but one of my soul towns. A place where I learned more about myself and more about the world. Late in my life. But not too late.

John Mims is the head chef and owner of this gem on 12th street off Sansom. Once the site of Odeon, London, and H.H. Battles florist, is now, much in a New Orleans sense of poetry, city of the dead, reborn as Les Bon Temps, ‘The Good Times’

In our opinion, the good times will roll, as should you, to this center city location. The great looks of the interior, the mood, and feel of the place are only prelude to the very good food you will experience.

Here is Katt from Buffalo pouring a perfect as she looks Cosmo.

I sincerely hope the money people and big idea people realize it is their staff as much as their money, ideas, and talent that makes a place, more than just a passing thing, they make it a place to go to. A food destination.

Lovely Jill, who provides the sugar and smoothes over the wrinkles, is house manager. She is perfect. Seen and not seen.

Maria greets you at the door, a gracious, long haired beauty who grew up in Doylestown. Living in Fairmount, attending school, striving towards becoming a family law lawyer.

I am always surprised at the upper level of education and intelligence of the bartenders, wait-persons, food runners, that are attending to, our pleasure.

Les Bon Temps has the feel of a good restaurant in the Crescent City, the place that care forgot. It has the pleasing and happy ghosts of its former uses.

Like an old Garden District mansion or an elderly stalwart of the Vieux Carre, Les Bons Temps, is a taste of New Orleans in Philadelphia.

Anyone that has spent some time in NOLA knows that there is not just one Gumbo, not just one Jambalaya, Bread pudding, or any other culinary dish with just one way to make it or present it.

If you know what it means to miss New Orleans, missing the tastes of N’orlans, missing Commanders Palace, Acme Oyster House, the Pearl, Galatoires…..Ohhh baby….

I suspect from other writers you already know John has been bringing his version of New Orleans to our area for quite some time now in the suburbs.

Now, John is in the big game, at least as far as the Philadelphia area is concerned. As we traveled out to the burbs, I hope his local suburban fans will come on down to the city and continue to enjoy his food.

Because he makes food that stirs my memory and soul I want him to succeed. Cheaper then an airline ticket and hotel room to the Big Easy.

John has only been open a month or so. He is training line chefs and staff. He is doing a fine job. N’orleans food is different. It is both subtle and intricate. French, but not. African, but not. Hispanic, but not. Haitian, but not. It is a special kind of American food that speaks to all of us.

Fried Oysters have that floating, light feeling, in a deconstructed Oysters Rockefeller scented with a Herbsaint Cream sauce and Spinach on toasted French bread. Very good, and a relief from the sometimes heavy imitations of Oysters Rock.

Gumbo with crab meat….. Sweet, a rich roux. Memorable combination of tastes.

Miss Judy’s crispy sea scallops in a black currant balsamic reduction….Perfect scallops, wonderful sauce.

I ordered Crispy duck and braised pork shoulder, fried oysters, andouille jambalaya, with smoked bacon gravy.

The braised pork shoulder was over salted. Rice was over salted. Duck was good as was the oyster. Gravy was good.

I asked for a moment from John as he passed by. I relayed to him my concerns.

I want you to understand, I have had food at most of the best New Orleans restaurants. I am a home cook that pays attention to detail. I know how much the chef wants to please. I am my own worst critic.

John was grateful for my sincere and respectful input and sent back a very edible version of my original order. Fantastic.

I hate having to do what I did, but I know as a lover of food, if I had been serving it, I would want to know. John was the same way. A true lover of food who wants to get it right.

Tell your server, as you order, your preference….not too much salt, make it less spicy, not too much heat. Les Bons Temp will be happy to make you happy.

Cajun Jambalaya, fried oysters, andouille, duck confit, crawfish, shrimp, rice and Creole sauce. Delicious, but might have too much upfront heat, taking away the exquisite flavors of the melange.

Crawfish Etouffee with green peppers, celery, and onion. A deep dark roux and crawfish sauce. Very Good.

And we found room for desert. And the deserts were good across the board.

A thick with pecans pie, not the single layer style. Banana cream pie. Not a creamed banana but a sliced banana creamed pie. A sticky bun-bread pudding that was a definite Philadelphia take on a New Orleans staple.

All of these deserts were good, sweet, fun, and a perfect ending to our meal.

Besides the important food are the folks who make you feel at home, greet you at the door, pours your first drink and serves you the food. Like John the owner, rightfully, fussing over his food, the rest of the staff are intrinsic to the entire positive experience.

Les Bon Temps will roll on for a long time in Philadelphia.

How lucky are we.